A Literary Walking Tour in Madrid

This spring/summer 2022, I had the trip of a lifetime! Well, I could say that about all of my trips but this one was super special for me as it was a personal writers’ retreat unlike any other. Because this one was specifically geared toward my writerly needs.

 Although I have about four to five different project pots simmering on the literary stove, I had long wanted to return to Madrid specifically for the purpose of gathering more material to finally finish my long-awaited piece of historical fiction I started in 2006 and continued to work on throughout my MFA program. It’s been a work-in-progress since that time and I thought I was finished with it, even had my fellow book club members read an early draft in 2010 (their choice to read it, not mine, Lol). But as I had been pecking at it since then, like a slow simmering stew, it never felt quite…done. I felt what it really needed was for me to return to Madrid to gather what I believed to be the missing pieces to this literary puzzle I’d been trying to finish all these years. So since my study abroad there in 2003, I had every intention to visit Madrid until the pandemic hit us and, of course, we all know how that affected us in our own lives.

 But then the opportunity finally came this year to return to a city I love just as much as I love Paris but in a more soulful, literary way. Today, I will be sharing the first of a series of posts dedicated to my whole “impromptu” and unforgettable writing retreat experience. What was serendipitous about this trip was that through my exploration of Madrid and the outskirts, I was able to fulfill my goal of researching, collecting ideas and material for not just my “ongoing” historical WIP, but also for my other WIPs. And now, without further ado, join me as I revisit a series of my literary adventures.

 

Rizal Literary Walking Tour Part One: Where Jose Rizal Lived

Courtesy of the Philippine Embassy in Madrid’s website, I stumbled upon a self-guided tour of the places Philippine hero Jose Rizal had lived, studied and wrote in Madrid. And to borrow some of the text from their tour guide, I will recount my idea/fact gathering adventure along with photos from this neighborhood.

 With the help of my good friend and best tour guide in the world, David, we began to amble along the streets of Del Barrio del Las Letras, a neighborhood known as the stomping grounds of such famous literary greats as Miguel de Cervantes and Lope de Vega. Using the walking tour guide from the Philippine embassy, we traversed the streets and alleys of this literary district finding that within the years Rizal had lived here, he really only stayed in pretty much the same area even though it was evident he had been “apartment hopping.”

 I was so psyched being here in this neighborhood retracing the steps of Jose Rizal, one of the muses of my novel. Without going into too much detail, (I want it to be a surprise for when the book finally publishes!) I’m excited to share my creative process throughout this journey. 😊

 

Calle Amor de Dios, 13-15

In no particular order, David and I ventured out to Calle Amor de Dios, 13-15, which was Rizal’s first Madrid residence from Sept. 12, 1882 to May 1883. According to the guide, Rizal lead a spartan life since he had a limited allowance of only less than 50 pesos per month. Here, he lived with Vicente Gonzalez, an old friend from his days at the Ateneo de Manila, and likely chose the place since it was close to the university and atelier Rizal attended where he delved into the fine arts. The guide notes that this apartment’s piano and four huge mirrors created a lasting impression on Rizal.

Personal writing notes: When someone exited the heavy steel doors, David took the chance to enter the building with me on his heels…it was truly an adventure. We felt like two literary detectives out to solve a mystery! Mainly, we both wanted to know how the building looked from the inside even though we couldn’t get access into the actual apartment. So up we went the creaky, wooden stairs, trying to imagine Rizal coming back to his place after a night out and trudging up the same stairs over a hundred years ago.

Calle Fernandez y Gonzales 8, 3º-4 (formerly C/. de la Visitación)

Situated close to Plaza Santa Ana and right behind the Teatro Español, Rizal lived here from May to June 17, 1883 before he left for a Paris vacation.

Personal notes: I imagined Rizal attending a performance at the Teatro Español, taking in the arts scene in his neighborhood.

 

Calle Ventura de la Vega (formerly C/. Baño 15, piso principal or 1º)

Also the headquarters of Circulo Hispano Filipino (CHF), a forum for Filipino students to discuss Philippine political discussions, Rizal boarded here from Autumn 1883 to August 1884. CHF, which published a magazine financed by Juan Atayde, a Philippine-born Spaniard, also sponsored regular bailes to raise funds for the association. It was also here in this residence where Consuelo Ortiga y Rey, the daughter of the residence’s owner, had caught Rizal’s attention. He gave her poems, musical pieces from Paris and guimaras, a type of Philippine textile.

Personal writing notes: This prompted me to envision writing a scene where my fictional Rizal character laments over his unrequited love for Consuelo and thought it best not to pursue her as he still had Leonor waiting for him back home.

Thank you for reading as writing this has been giving me the opportunity to relive this exciting literary adventure! Please check back for the continuation of this series…